簡易檢索 / 詳目顯示

研究生: 李悠禎
Li, You-Zhen
論文名稱: 從伸展台到博物館﹕亞歷山大麥昆的時尚藝術
From Runway to Museum: on Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty in the Victoria and Albert Museum
指導教授: 賴嘉玲
Lai, Chia-Ling
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 歐洲文化與觀光研究所
Graduate Institute of European Cultures and Tourism
論文出版年: 2018
畢業學年度: 106
語文別: 英文
論文頁數: 197
中文關鍵詞: 博物館時尚時尚展覽亞歷山大麥昆維多利亞亞伯特博物館策展實務民主化企業贊助
英文關鍵詞: Museum, Fashion, Fashion Exhibition, Alexander McQueen, Victoria and Albert Museum, Curatorship, Democratization, Corporate Sponsorship
DOI URL: http://doi.org/10.6345/THE.NTNU.GECT.007.2018.A05
論文種類: 學術論文
相關次數: 點閱:234下載:52
分享至:
查詢本校圖書館目錄 查詢臺灣博碩士論文知識加值系統 勘誤回報
  • 近年來,在博物館裡展出名設計師時尚展覽的現象越來越普遍,高度商業化的時尚產業越界進入到過去只展示高尚文化的藝術殿堂。2015年展於維多利亞亞伯特博物館舉辦驚世駭俗的英國時尚設計師亞歷山大麥昆回顧展Alexander McQueen :Savage Beauty,打破了博物館最高參觀人次的紀錄,帶來了的可觀的經濟收益,然而博物館與商業品牌之間的贊助合作模式,也凸顯在博物館中展出時裝的合理性的爭議。博物館為時裝品牌冠上藝術品的美名,增加文化價值,然而,博物館是否淪為時尚產業的宣傳平台?
    本研究旨在藉由近期的博物館營運發展新趨勢來檢視時尚與博物館之間的論述形構。本論文針對時尚展覽的中的博物館、企業、與展覽策劃三個面向討論。首先,藉由Tony Bennett的展覽複合體與Pierre Bourdieu的品味秀異討論博物館的正當性、博物館化與品味建立的能力。第二,到了1960年代,博物館為追求更多的參觀者而迎合大眾品味,成為更文化民主化的文化單位。然而這種為求生存、商業化的經營方式推使博物館與企業共謀,接受企業贊助,本研究採用Bourdieu的場域理論與企業贊助的論述,檢視當藝術場域被外部影響,在立場偏頗的情況下,是否還能維持策展的自主性以及教育功能?最後,分析展覽的論述生產與意義建構,並透過追溯時尚策展流變,檢視博物館從過去收藏具歷史重要性與時代價值的服裝與織品,到近代品牌時裝展示於藝術場域,挑戰博物館的框架,揭示背後權力知識的關係,重新定義博物館的教育與娛樂功能。
    本研究透過田野調查、質性訪談與論述分析,以倫敦維多利亞亞伯特博物館舉辦的Alexander McQueen :Savage Beauty為案例,分析展覽論述,探究消費性的時尚商品在博物館的場域裡展出的正當性與企業贊助之疑慮,梳理該展覽於時尚展覽史中的定位,加以解析當代時尚設計於博物館展出的現象。

    Museums have been collecting and presenting contemporary fashion couture since late twentieth century. Nowadays, museums turn to fashion exhibitions with increased frequency, relying on its magnetic attractiveness to draw in the crowd. Exhibiting fashion within the museum’s scope has created unconventional scene. The most visited exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum history, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition had brought new visitors, media exposure and commercial interest. However, the cooperation between museums and commerce is often debatable because of its commerciality, its legitimacy and institution autonomy. This thesis takes Alexander McQueen’s retrospective exhibition, Savage Beauty as a case study to examine the corporate sponsorship and to analyze whether or not the museum has turned into a promotional venue for commercial entities.

    This research is comprised of an analysis of the three core facets of the fashion exhibition: the museums, the corporate sponsorship, and the exhibition curatorship. First, in order to analyze how the museum has become an attractive venue for the fashion industry to showcase their design, this thesis demonstrate the process of legitimization and power-knowledge displayed with Tony Bennett’s exhibitionary complex and Pierre Bourdieu’s Distinction. Secondly, since the focus of the museum has shifted to be more democratization and popularization, this thesis investigates the corporate sponsorship to interpret several issues revolving around institutional ethics, as well as the museum’s autonomy. Finally, by analyzing exhibition discourse, the visitors’ reviews as well as the history of fashion exhibition, this research explicates the influence of exhibiting fashion in the museum field.

    This research adopts a qualitative research approach, applying multiple data collection methods: discourse analysis, fieldwork and semi-structure interviews to the visitors, to develop a thorough interpretive analysis. Research finding suggested that the V&A had emphasized Alexander McQueen’s artistry, exhibit-worthiness and legitimacy through convincing aspects and there was no hint of commercialism within the exhibition. The sponsors have long history supporting McQueen. However, the corporate sponsorship indeed brings wider recognition, and long-lasting influence through the aesthetic appropriation as well as the interchangeability between cultural capital, economic capital and social capital of the museum and the corporations.

    Acknowledgement i Abstract ii 中文摘要 iii Table of Contents iv List of Figures vi List of Tables viii Chapter I. INTRODUCTION 1 1-1 Research Background 1 1-2 Research Objectives 4 Chapter II. LITERATURE REVIEW 7 2-1 A Brief History of Fashion Exhibition 7 2-2 Museum’s Discursive Formation and Legitimacy 23 2-2-1 Distinction, Cultural Capital and the Changing Museology 27 2-3 Museum, Art and Fashion 33 2-3-1 Corporate Sponsorship 37 2-4 The Poetics and the Politics of Exhibitions 41 Chapter III METHODOLOGY 46 3-1 Research Subject 46 3-2 Research Methods 51 Chapter IV VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM & SAVAGE BEAUTY 60 4-1 A Brief History of Fashion Exhibition in the V&A 60 4-2 Background Information about Savage Beauty exhibition 67 4-3 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty 76 Chapter V ART & COMMERCE: ANALYZING SAVAGE BEAUTY 100 5-1 Analyzing Legitimacy & Corporate Sponsorship 100 5-2 The Visitors and the Media Review 121 Chapter VI CONCLUSION 132 6-1 Museum's Role in Exhibiting Fashion Design 132 6-2 Corporate's Influence 137 Reference 140 Appendixes A Exhibition Panels 148 Appendixes B Interview Transcript 159

    Alexander, V. D. (1999). A Delicate Balance: Museums and the Market-place. Museum
    International, 51(2), 29-34.
    Anderson, Fiona. (2000). “Museums as Fashion Media.” In Fashion Cultures: Theories,
    Explorations, and Analysis, eds. Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson 371-
    389. London: Routledge, 2000.
    Adburgham, A. (2014 September 22). Fashion archive: Cecil Beaton's testament of
    fashion. Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/sep/22/fashion-cecil-beaton-anthology-
    v-a
    Barret,J.,(2012). 追求民主——作為公共空間的博物館,博物館學季刊,26(4):7-28
    Bennett, T. (1992). Putting Policy into Cultural Studies, in Grossberg, L., Nelson,
    C.,& Treichler, P. A. (eds.). Cultural Studies. (pp.23-37). London: Routledge.
    Bennett, T. (1995a). The Formation of the Museum. The Birth of the Museum:
    History, Theory, Politics (pp. 17-58). London: Routledge.

    Bennett, T. (1998). The Exhibitionary Complex. New Formations, 4, 73-102.
    Bolton, A. (2011). Alexander McQueen: savage beauty. Metropolitan Museum of Art.
    Bourdieu, P. (1984). Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste. Harvard
    University Press.
    Bourdieu, P., Darbel, A., & Schnapper, D. (1991). The Love of Art. (Beattie, C. &
    Merriman, N, Trans). Cambridge: Polity Press.
    Bourdieu, P., & Johnson, R. (1993). The field of cultural production: Essays on art
    and literature. Columbia University Press.
    Bourdieu, P. (1996). The rules of art: Genesis and structure of the literary field.
    Stanford University Press.
    Bourdieu, P. (2005). The social structures of the economy. Polity.
    Bourdieu, P. (2011). The forms of capital.(1986). Cultural theory: An anthology,
    81-93.
    Boodro, Michael. 1990. “Art and Fashion.” Artnews, September,120-7
    Calinao, D.J.& Lin, H.W. (2017) The Cultural Tourism Potential of a Fashion-related
    Exhibition – the Case of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty at the Victoria and
    Albert Museum, Journal of Heritage Tourism, 12:2, 204-217
    Cash, S. (2011 July 29). No Sponsorship Controversy For McQueen? Retrieved from:
    http://www.artinamericamagazine.com/news-features/news/metropolitan-
    alexander-mcqueen-sponsorship/
    Cartner-Morley, J. (2015. March 12) Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty: the best-
    dressed haunted house you will ever visit. Retrieved from:
    https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/mar/12/alexander-mcqueen-grab-attendees-v-and-a-victoria-albert
    Cartner-Morley, J.(2002. October 15) Versace at the V&A. Retrieve from:
    https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2002/oct/15/fashion.arts
    Chu, C.J.朱紀蓉 (2011) 新自由主義與英國博物館的發展,博物館學季刊,25(2):5-17
    Cooke, R. (2015 March 15). Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty review – superficially
    magnificent. Retrieved from:
    https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/mar/15/alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty-v-and-a-review-observer-awe-and-unease
    Cochrane, L. (2015 November 11). Alexander McQueen’s Menswear Show is a Thing
    of Savage Beauty. Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/jan/11/alexander-mcqueen-punk-pinstripe-savage-beauty
    Clark, J., De La Haye, A., & Horsley, J. (2014). Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After
    1971.
    Clarke, R. (2016. April 5) BEST PRACTICE: Why the V&A’s Savage Beauty was the
    arts sponsorship of the year. Retrieved from: https://albrightthinking.com/2016/04/05/why-the-vas-savage-beauty-was-the-arts-sponsorship-of-the-year/

    Dacre, K. (2015. March 6) Long live Alexander McQueen: the designer's friends pay
    tribute as London gears up for Savage Beauty at V&A. Retrieved from: http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/design/long-live-alexander-mcqueen-the-designers-friends-pay-tribute-as-london-gears-up-for-savage-beauty-10090202.html
    Dawood, S. (2016. March 8) Millions more people now visiting UK galleries and
    museums, research shows. Retrieved from: https://www.designweek.co.uk/issues/7-13-march-2016/millions-more-people-now-visiting-uk-galleries-and-museums-research-shows/
    De la Haye, A. (2006). Vogue and the V&A Vitrine: An exploration of how British Vogue has responded to fashion exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert Museum from 1971 to 2004, with specific reference to the exhibition “Fashion: An Anthology by Cecil Beaton” and garments that have been imprinted with wear. Fashion Theory, 10(1-2), 127-152.

    Drain, K. (2015 August 5). Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Ranked Most Popular
    Exhibit Ever At The Victoria & Albert Museum. Retrieved from: http://www.fashiontimes.com/articles/22823/20150805/alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty-ranked-popular-exhibit-victoria-albert-museum.htm
    Duncan, C. (1995). Civilizing rituals: Inside public art museums. Routledge.
    Foucault, M. (1972). The Archeology of Knowledge, trans. A. Sheridan. London:
    Tavistock.
    Foucault, M. (1977). Discipline and Punish (A. Sheridan, Trans.). New York: Vintage
    Boks.
    Fox, C. (2012). Vogue On: Alexander McQueen. Quadrille Publishing Ltd
    Foreman, L. (2014. March 12) Judith Clark on Cecil Beaton’s Revolutionary Fashion
    Exhibit. Retrieved from http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2014/03/12/judith-
    clark-on-cecil-beaton-s-revolutionary-fashion-exhibit.html
    Gill, Rosalind.(2000) Discourse analysis. London: Sage Publications, 172-190
    Grassi, A., Swindells, S., & Wigley, S. Luxury Fashion Brands’ Art Foundations–an
    Exploratory Investigation.
    Gleason, K. (2012). Alexander McQueen: Evolution. Race Point Pub.
    Hall, S. (1997). Representation: Cultural representations and signifying
    practices (Vol. 2). Sage.
    Howarth, D. (2015 March 12) Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty opens at London's
    V&A. Retrieved from: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/03/12/alexander-mcqueen-s avage-beauty-fashion-exhibition-london-va-museum/
    Hyland,V, (2015. April 9) Harold Koda on Talking Back to Diana Vreeland. The Cut.
    Retrieved from
    http://nymag.com/thecut/2015/03/harold-koda-on-talking-back-to-diana-vreeland.html
    Hooper-Greenhill, E. (1999). Museum, media, message. Psychology Press.
    Janes, R. R. (2013). Museums and the Paradox of Change. Routledge.
    Johnson, R. M. (2014 October 20) When Fashion Sponsorship Works. Retrieved from:
    http://poeticsofdesign.blogspot.tw/2014/10/when-fashion-sponsorship-works.html
    Julius, C.(2015) SAVAGE BEAUTY: The performance fashion of Alexander
    McQueen. Craft Arts International. Issue 94, 72-75
    Kotler, N. G., Kotler, P., & Kotler, W. I. (2008). Museum marketing and strategy:
    designing missions, building audiences, generating revenue and resources. San
    Francisco: Jossey-Bass
    Kroening, E. (2012). From Runway to Museum: Creating Successful Exhibitions
    Showing the Interrelationship between Fashion and Art. Journal of
    Undergraduate Research at Minnesota State University, Vol. 12, Article 5,
    22-27.
    Koda, H., & Glasscock, J. (2014). The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of
    Art: An Evolving History. Fashion and Museums: Theory and Practice, 21.
     Lai, Chia-ing. 2004. Museums in Motion. PhD. Thesis of Department of
    Sociology, Lancaster University. 
    Lai, C. L. 2004. “Art Exhibitions Travel the World.” In Tourism Mobilities: Places to
    Play, Places in Play. eds. Sheller, M & Urry, J. New York: Routledge, 90-102
    Lord, G. D., & Lord, B. (2009). The Manual of Museum Management. Rowman
    Altamira.
    Lidchi, H. (1997). The Poetics and the Politics of Exhibiting Other Cultures In: Hall,
    S (ed).(1997).Representation. (pp.168-184).London: Sage.
    Lury, C. (1996). Consumer culture. Rutgers University Press.
    Martin, R. H. (1998). American Ingenuity: Sportswear, 1930s-1970s. Metropolitan
    Museum of Art.
    Melchior, M. R., & Svensson, B. (Eds.). (2014). Fashion and museums: theory and
    practice. Bloomsbury: London
    Menkes, S. (2015 May 16). Suzy Menkes: Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Review.
    Retrieved from http://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/suzy-menkes-on-alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty
    Monti, G. (2013). After Diana Vreeland: The Discipline of Fashion Curating as a
    Personal Grammar. Catwalk: The Journal of Fashion, Beauty and Style. 2(1):
    63-90.
    Moore, K. (1994). Museum management. Psychology Press.
    Moore, K. (1997). Museums and Popular Culture. London: Leicester University Press.
    Mower, S. (2008. February 29)Fall Ready to Wear: Alexander McQueen. Retrieved
    from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen
    Potvin, J. 2012. Fashion and the Art Musuem: When Gioarmani Went to the
    Guggenheim. Journal of Curatorial Studies. 1(1): 47-63.
    Porter, C. (2016. April 30) Andrew Bolton: the man at the Met. Retrieved from:
    https://www.ft.com/content/d5ec8f46-c12d-11e5-9fdb-87b8d15baec2
    Popsugar Fashion News.(2010. March 10) Lee Alexander McQueen's Final Collection
    For Fall 2010: All Angels and Demons. Retrieved from: http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Lee-Alexander-McQueen-Final-Collection-Fall-2010-All-Angels-Demons-7692975#photo-7692975
    Rectanus, M. W. (2002) Culture Incorporated: Museums, Artists, and Corporate
    Sponsorships. University of Minnesota Press.
    Ross, M. (2004). Interpreting the new museology. Museum and society, 2(2), 84-103.
    Steele, V. (2008) “Museum Quality: The Rise of the Fashion Exhibition.” Fashion
    Theory 12 : 7-30.
    Steele, V.(2013) Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, Fashion Theory, 17:4, 419-
    430.
    Storey, J. (2009). Cultural theory and popular culture: An introduction. Pearson
    Longman.
    Taylor, L. (2004). Establishing dress history. Manchester University Press.
    Tomkins, C. (2013. March 25 ) ANARCHY UNLEASHED:A curator brings punk to the
    Met. Retrieved from: http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2013/03/25/anarchy-unleashed
    Thorpe, V. (2015. March 8) Behind the scenes at the V&A’s Alexander McQueen show.
    Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/mar/08/alexander-mcqueen-victoria-albert-museum-behind-the-scenes
    The Guardian Press Association (2015. August 3) Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty
    is most popular show in the V&A’s history. Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/aug/03/alexander-mcqueen-show-savage-beauty-most-popular-victoria-and-albert-history
    The Met Press (2011. August 8) 661,509 Total Visitors to Alexander McQueen Put
    Retrospective among Top 10 Most Visited Exhibitions in Metropolitan Museum’s History. Retrieved from: https://www.metmuseum.org/press/news/2011/mcqueen-attendance
    The UK Sponsorship Award (2016 March 22). The 2016 Awards for the most effective
    use of sponsorship. Retrieved from: http://www.sponsorship-awards.co.uk/sites/default/files/sponsorship/Book-of-the-Night.pdf
    The UK Sponsorship Award (2016 March 22). Categories and Criteria. Retrieved from:
    http://www.sponsorship-awards.co.uk/categories-and-criteria
    Tzeng, S.C.曾信傑 (1999) 博物館行銷時代的來臨,博物館季刊,13(3): 3-9
    Vänskä, A., & Clark, H. (Eds.). (2017). Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the
    Museum and Beyond. Bloomsbury Publishing.
    Vergo, P. (1989). The New Museology. London: Reaktion Books
    Watt, J. (2012). Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy. Harper Design.
    Wacquant, L. (2005) Habitus. International Encyclopedia of Economic Sociology. J.
    Becket and Z. Milan. London, Routledge.
    Wu, C. T. (2003). Privatising culture: Corporate art intervention since the 1980s. Verso.
    Wilson, E (2015. March 18) Now You Know: The Secret Behind Some of Alexander
    McQueen's Most Fantastic Works. Retrieved from: http://www.instyle.com/news/now-you-know-secret-behind-some-alexander-mcqueens-most-fantastic-works
    Wilcox, C. (2015). Alexander McQueen. V&A Publishing

    下載圖示
    QR CODE