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研究生: 吳欣曄
Hsin-Yeh WU
論文名稱: 巴黎甜點美食觀光:台灣觀光客的文化消費實踐
Pâtisserie Tourism in Paris: On the Practices of Taiwanese Tourists
指導教授: 賴嘉玲
Lai, Chia-Ling
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 歐洲文化與觀光研究所
Graduate Institute of European Cultures and Tourism
論文出版年: 2015
畢業學年度: 103
語文別: 中文
論文頁數: 171
中文關鍵詞: 美食觀光巴黎甜點地景建構場域文化中介者消費實踐
英文關鍵詞: gastronomic tourism, Parisian pâtisseries, destination-making, fields, cultural intermediaries, consumption practices
DOI URL: https://doi.org/10.6345/NTNU202205476
論文種類: 學術論文
相關次數: 點閱:462下載:232
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  •   本研究以巴黎甜點美食觀光為例,從其根源著手,探究巴黎甜點觀光地景的生成,又巴黎甜點文化如何經過全球位移而東傳台灣,而台灣的文化導覽中介建構出什麼樣貌的巴黎甜點觀光場域,使台灣甜點觀光客帶著巴黎甜點意象,滿懷憧憬地穿梭於巴黎大街小巷,一親芳澤,研究最後藉由訪談台灣赴巴黎的甜點觀光客,從符號蒐集、儀式秀異、感官記憶三個面向分析其積累的消費實踐以完整「憶」猶「味」境的甜點觀光朝聖。
      本研究借重Pierre Bourdieu的場域與消費秀異理論,探討巴黎甜點美食觀光的地景生成、文化中介與消費實踐。研究方法以論述分析為主,其資料來自歷史文獻、導覽書、深度訪談以及巴黎甜點地景的田野調查與甜點店銷售實習的工作觀察。
      論文重心在於:一、以「文化生產場域」的概念論述法國甜點與甜點店在其歷史脈絡中受到實作家與美食家賦予飲食美學化的位置,以及作為制衡感官邏輯、社會階級要角的象徵權力,並指出法國甜點美食場域與文學、美感、時尚場域的構聯。二、以「文化中介」的概念說明法國甜點藉由日本殖民治台時期西化政策的特殊中介讓傳散的歷史路徑與感官想像得以在台灣呈現,爾後再藉由台灣出版的巴黎甜點觀光導覽書作為巴黎甜點在台灣的象徵符號生成與意識形態建構。三、藉由甜點觀光中的消費實踐形成品味劃分的社會格調,展現「品味秀異」的另類觀光。本研究聚焦在甜點消費是奢侈與美感品味這類象徵符碼的蒐集、有意識地擬仿法國社會共享的甜點品嚐儀式,以及紀念物蒐集、影像紀錄、味覺細描所共組的特定甜點觀光記憶,堆疊出與其他觀光客產生文化距離的秀異品味。

      Take pâtisserie tourism in Paris as a case study, this research is to explore its destination-making, to study how it is transferred from France to Taiwan by intermediate guiding systems and, by interviewing Taiwanese tourists, to analyze the consumption practices of symbol-collecting, distinctive performances and sensory experiences.
      Using Pierre Bourdieu’s “field” & “distinction in consumption” theory, the research studies destination-making, cultural intermediaries and consumption practices in the field of gastronomic tourism, focused on Parisian pâtisseries. Research method is based on discourse analysis about historical documents, guidebooks and in-depth interviews. Field records during the fieldwork and the internship about sales and client services in the pâtisserie Carl Marletti in Paris are analyzed.
      The emphasis on the research is as followed. First, it describes how French pâtisseries (both desserts and shops) are anchored as the role of aestheticization in the field of cultural production by practitioners, gourmets and intellectuals under the historical context. This makes French pâtisseries symbolic powers to standardize sensory logic and to pinpoint social classes. Furthermore, gastronomic field is connected to the field of literary, aesthetics and media on fashion. Second, historical route and sensory imagination about French pâtisseries are introduced to early Taiwanese by means of Japanese colonial development policy, cultural westernization, in Taiwan. Also, the guide books of Parisian pâtisseries, written by Taiwanese travelers, are considered cultural intermediaries and the discourses inside are analyzed as the production of symbols and ideologies. Third, it analyzes the tourists’ consumption practices of photo-taking, souvenir-collecting, performances, as well as sensory description to demonstrate the concept of “distinction in taste” in pâtisserie tourism as alternative tourism.

    第一章 緒論…………………………………………………………………………………………………………3  第一節 研究動機…………………………………………………………………………………………………3  第二節 研究背景與問題意識………………………………………………………………………………6 第二章 文獻探討………………………………………………………………………………………………………9  第一節 美食地景場域建構-法國飲食文化美學化(從十九世紀迄今)………9  第二節 美食觀光 …………………………………………………………………18   (一) 美食觀光地景……………………………………………………………………………………19   (二) 旅遊導覽書與美食導覽書於觀光中的論述 ……………………………25  第三節 旅行中的美食消費實踐……………………………………………………………31   (一) 美食觀光符號蒐集與消費……………………………………………………………31   (二) 美食觀光儀式展演與消費………………………………………………………………34   (三) 美食觀光記憶收藏與消費………………………………………………………………36 第三章 研究方法………………………………………………………………………………………………………39  第一節 研究對象與研究方法……………………………………………………39 第四章 巴黎甜點美食觀光地景的建構……………………………………………………………49  第一節 巴黎甜點與甜點店的曙光………………………………………………49  第二節 巴黎甜點觀光地景的形成………………………………………………60  第三節 從實習經驗跟田野看甜點觀光地景的建構……………………………75 第五章 巴黎甜點觀光的導覽中介 ……………………………………………………………82  第一節 法日至法台的甜點技藝交流 ………………………………………………82   (一)法國料理東傳日本 …………………………………………………………………………82  (二)日本作為法國甜點東傳台灣的中介 …………………………………………84  第二節 觀光導覽書的論述分析 ……………………………………………………………………89   (一)導覽書的功用與意義…………………………………………………………………………89  (二)導覽書的特性與論述方式 …………………………………………………………………90  第三節 甜點觀光導覽書建構的巴黎 …………………………………………92   (一)巴黎甜點主題觀光導覽書 ………………………………………………………………93    《巴黎甜點》、《記住巴黎的甜滋味》、《巴黎時尚甜點咖啡館》   (二)甜點觀光導覽書建構的巴黎 ……………………………………………………………95     (A)巴黎 - 流動的文史痕跡 …………………………………………………………95     (B)巴黎 - 原味食材的集散地 …………………………………………………101     (C)巴黎 - 美食美學化與儀式化的示現 ………………………………105  第四節 台版巴黎甜點導覽依循法國指標與系統建構美食正當性 …113 第六章 台灣赴巴黎甜點觀光客的消費實踐 ………………………………………………118  第一節 台灣赴巴黎甜點觀光客分析 …………………………………………119   (一)需要帶著台灣導覽的甜點觀光客 …………………………………120   (二)不需帶著台灣導覽的甜點觀光客 …………………………………123  第二節 台灣赴巴黎甜點觀光客的消費實踐 …………………………… 126  (一)符號蒐集-捧在手心的幸福精品 …………………………………… 126  (二)儀式秀異-不容輕忽的神聖祭典 …………………………………… 135  (三)感官記憶-協調美感的身體展演 ……………………………………140 第七章 結論………………………………………………………………………………………………………149  第一節 總結……………………………………………………………………………………………150  第二節 研究限制與未來建議………………………………………………………………154 附錄 ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………155 參考文獻 ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………161

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