研究生: |
林依蒨 Lin, Yi-Chien |
---|---|
論文名稱: |
羅蘭巴特流行體系公式創作生成式AI時尚的實驗:
慈禧太后與維多利亞女王的虛擬時尚對話 Experimenting with Roland Barthes' Fashion System Formula to Create Generative AI Fashion: A Virtual Fashion Dialogue Between Empress Dowager Cixi and Queen Victoria |
指導教授: |
黃心健
Huang, Hsin-Chien |
口試委員: |
許鳳玉
Hsu, Feng-Yu 薛佑廷 Hsueh, Yu-Ting 黃心健 Huang, Hsin-Chien |
口試日期: | 2024/01/25 |
學位類別: |
碩士 Master |
系所名稱: |
設計學系設計創作碩士在職專班 Department of Design_Continuing Education Master's Program of Creative Practice in Design |
論文出版年: | 2024 |
畢業學年度: | 112 |
語文別: | 中文 |
論文頁數: | 143 |
中文關鍵詞: | 人工智慧時尚 、慈禧太后 、服裝設計流程 、虛擬服裝 、維多利亞女王 |
英文關鍵詞: | AI fashion, Empress Dowager Cixi, fashion design process, Virtual Clothing, Queen Victoria |
研究方法: | 個案研究法 、 深度訪談法 、 創作 |
DOI URL: | http://doi.org/10.6345/NTNU202401130 |
論文種類: | 學術論文 |
相關次數: | 點閱:110 下載:25 |
分享至: |
查詢本校圖書館目錄 查詢臺灣博碩士論文知識加值系統 勘誤回報 |
2019 年末開始,COVID-19 影響全球人民,生活因社交距離限制而產生重大變化,線上工作與學習成為主流,人們開始重視數位場域的社交媒體與個人形象。同時間,臉書創辦人馬克祖克柏也宣布「元宇宙」的來臨,並將公司改名為 meta。在服裝產業,媒體及大型品牌開始經營虛擬空間與推出線上時裝秀,結合虛擬實境技術,滿足消費者新鮮體驗,也提供設計師新的探索空間。由於虛擬服裝無需受限實際的身體、色彩與材質等物質介面,也可以無限制地不斷設計與產出虛擬服裝,意外的與羅蘭巴特「無以窮盡的服裝」想法接軌。羅蘭巴特《流行體系》一直是服裝產業、時尚媒體產業、學界研究的經典文本,其符號學的「能指」點出了媒體書寫服裝、創造時尚的公式,進而創造出「實體服裝」、「書寫服裝」、「意象服裝」相互作用的觀點。本研究以此為理論靈感來源與基礎,分析實體服裝與數位服裝的生態模式,並且實際採用3D數位設計平台、人工智慧生成圖像平台設計服裝,不論未來實體生產、或成為數位服裝,都為實體服裝與虛擬服裝整理出一個可操作模式,因此提出「鑽石理論」希望為新投入服裝設計領域的人們提供一開闊視野與可操作模式。
From late 2019, COVID-19 began impacting people worldwide, ushering in significant lifestyle changes due to restrictions on social interaction. online work and learning became the norm, emphasizing the importance of digital spaces and personal branding. Concurrently, Facebook's founder, Mark Zuckerberg, heralded the arrival of the "metaverse" and rebranded the company as Meta. In the realm of fashion, media, and major brands, there emerged a focus on virtual spaces and the introduction of online fashion shows, integrating virtual reality technology. This trend aimed to fulfill consumers' desires for novel experiences while offering designers new realms for exploration.
Virtual clothing, devoid of constraints related to physical bodies, colors, or material interfaces, can be continuously designed and produced limitlessly, aligning unexpectedly with Roland Barthes' concept of "endless clothing." Barthes' semiotics within the fashion industry, fashion media, and academic research have been a classic text. His notion of the "signifier" highlights the formula for media in writing clothing and creating fashion, establishing perspectives where "physical clothing," "written clothing," and "imaginary clothing" interact.
This study draws theoretical inspiration and foundation from Barthes' concepts to analyze the ecological models of physical and digital clothing. It practically employs 3D digital design platforms and AI-generated image platforms to design clothing. Whether for future physical production or as digital clothing, it aims to establish an operational model for both physical and virtual garments. Hence, the "Diamond Theory" is proposed, intending to offer newcomers in the field of clothing design a broadened perspective and a functional framework.
Aldenton.S (2015, March 20 ). Social Media Case Study – Rebecca Minkoff. WGSN https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/57499#page_1
Adedoyin-Olowe, M., Gaber, M. M., & Stahl, F. (2014). A survey of data mining techniques for social network analysis. Journal of Data Mining & Digital Humanities. Retrieved from http://jdmdh.episciences.org/18/pdf.
BOF Team. (2021, November 12). Dematerialisation: Why the Metaverse Is Fashion’s. Next Goldmine. BOF. https://www.businessoffashion.com/videos/technology/the-bof-show-with-imran-amed-episode4-dematerialisation/
Barry Samaha (2020, Feb 19). Gucci Blends Sweet and Sinister Motifs with Its Fall 2020 Collection.Creative director Alessandro Michele set the stage for a collection that played with dualities. harpersbazaar. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a31002288/gucci-fall-2020-collection-review/
BoF & McKinsey & Company (2022,6月30)。The State of Fashion 。The Business of Fashion 。取自https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/state-of-fashion-technology-report-metaverse-digital-goods/
Chesher, Chris. (2023, August ). The emergence of autolography: the ‘magical’. invocation of. images from text through AI. Media International Australia. 189(1), 1–17. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1329878X231193252
DRESSX. (2022). How to wear DRESSX and Digital Fashion. DRESSX. https://dressx.com/pages/help
David Hogge (2014, December 27). The Empress Dowager and the Camara Photographing Cixi, 1903-1904. Visualizing Cultures. https://visualizingcultures.mit.edu/empress_dowager/cx_essay01.html
Eric Samuel De Maré 。(1972)London 1851: the year of the Great Exhibition。London:Folio Society。
Friedman.V (2020, May 2). Is This the Future of the Fashion Show? The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/05/02/fashion/coronavirus-digital- fashion-show.html
Goncharenko. V(2022, May 13) DressX becomes the first digital brand to drop a collection on Roblox. Metaverse Post. https://mpost.io/dressx-becomes-the-first-digital-brand-to-drop-a-collection-on-roblox/
Goncharenko. V (2022, May 09) DressX is a LVMH Innovation Award finalist. Metaverse Post. https://mpost.io/dressx-is-the-lvmh-innovation-award-finalist/
Hope. K (2016, February 05). How social media is transforming the fashion industry BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/news/business-35483480
Kelly. S (2021, March 10). Digital clothes: Could it make fashion more sustainable? BBC. https://www.bbc.com/news/av/technology-56264555
Kati Chitrako (2022, April 13). Marni introduces digital fashion with new virtual world. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/marni-introduces-digital-fashion-with-new-virtual-world-wearweare
Kale. S (2021, October 06) Is the metaverse influencing real-life trends? The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/oct/06/out-of-style-will- gen-z-ever-give- up-its-dangerous-love-of-fast-fashion
Mahlich. H (2022, May 25). Chanel Make Their First Metaverse Move for Virtual Reality Experience 'Le Bal De Paris'. Showstudio. https://www.showstudio.com/news/chanel-make-their-first-metaverse-move-for-virtual-reality-experience-le-bal-de-paris .
Maguire. L (2022, April 12) Is the metaverse influencing real-life trends? Vogue Business.https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/is-the-metaverse-influencing-real-life-trends#intcid=_voguebusiness-uk-bottom-recirc_93e0021e-7d1e-45ca-bb59-2b0c82448f15_text2vec1
Microsoft Canada (2015,10月28)。Attention spans Consumer Insights。Microsoft attention spans, Spring 2015 。取自https://dl.motamem.org/microsoft-attention-spans-research-report.pdf
Meta (2021,10月28)。The Metaverse and How We'll Build It Together -- Connect 2021。取自https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uvufun6xer8&t=1s
McDowell. M (2021, January 25). These Platforms Want to Be The Farftech of. Digital fashion. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/these-platforms-want-to- be-the-farfetch-of-digital-fashion .
Paton. E , Lorenz. T, Kwai. I (2019, December 26) What Do Gen Z Shoppers Want? A Cute, Cheap Outfit That Looks Great on Instagram The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/20/style/metaverse-fashion.html
Prada. (2021) . 2021 Fall & Winter Show. Prada https://www.prada.com/us/en/pradasphere/fashion-shows/2021/fw-womenswear.html
Pavia. W (2021, October 08). DressX: The latest fashion is clothes that don’t exist. The Sunday Times. https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/dressx-latest-fashion-clothes-dont-exist-gjh270w0g
Paton. E , Lorenz. T, Kwai. I (2019, December 26) What Do Gen Z Shoppers Want? A Cute, Cheap Outfit That Looks Great on Instagram The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/20/style/metaverse-fashion.html
Roberts-Islam.B (2020, August 21). How Digital Fashion Could Replace Fast Fashion, And The Startup Paving The Way. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2020/08/21/how-digital-fashion-could-replace-fast-fashion-and-the-startup-paving-the-way/?sh=614b614470d8.
Rachel Ross(October 20, 2006)。Transforming Clothes。Computerized motors pulled the strings at a recent Paris fashion show, dramatically altering dresses on the runway. MIT Technology Review 。
https://www.technologyreview.com/2006/10/20/38489/transforming-clothes/
Safiya Nygaard (2021,9月25)。I Wore Digital Clothes For A Week。Safiya Nygaard。取自https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVfJheBp7Ys&t=1001s
Spawforth-Jones, S. (2021). Utilising mood boards as an image elicitation tool in qualitative research. Sociological Research OnLin:e, 26(4), 871-888.
「spitfield silk」( 2023 ) 。https://www.rct.uk/collection/74851/queen-victorias- dress-for-the-opening-of-the-great-exhibition
Sarah Scaturro (2020)。 (Im)mortal Fashion: Iris van Herpen's "Skeleton" Dress。Metropolitan Museum。https://www.metmuseum.org/zh/about-the- met/conservation-and-scientific-research/conservation-stories/2020/skeleton-dress
Tabor Hill. (2021, September 21). How Are The BALENCIAGA Skins Reactive? Tabor Hill https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFCx3uAzdrA
The fabricant. (2022). Always Digital, Never Physical. The fabricant https://www.thefabricant.com/
The WGSN Content Team. (2022, April 10) . The Opportunities for Digital Fashion. WGSN.https://www.audible.com/pd/48-The-Opportunities-for-Digital-Fashion-Podcast/B09XLMLDTG?action_code=ASSGB149080119000H&share_location=pdp&shareTest=TestShare
THE DEMATERIALISED. (2022) . THE DEMATERIALISED. https://thedematerialised.com/discover Discover 2022
The Fortnite Team(2020, September 20) . High Digital Fashion Drops into Fortnite. with Balenciaga?Fortnite. https://www.epicgames.com/fortnite/en-US/news/high-digital-fashion-drops-into-fortnite-with-balenciaga
The fabricant. (2022). Always Digital, Never Physical. The fabricant. https://www.thefabricant.com/
The WGSN Content Team. (2015, September 07). OnLin:e_Fit_Solutions_Update_–_Four_to_Explore. WGSN. https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/59535
The WGSN Content Team. (2022, April 10) The Opportunities for Digital. Fashion WGSN. https://www.audible.com/pd/48-The-Opportunities-for-Digital-Fashion-Podcast/B09XLMLDTG?action_code=ASSGB149080119000H&share_location=pdp&shareTest=TestShare
The Fortnite Team(2022, September ). High Digital Fashion Drops into Fortnite. with Balenciaga?Fortnite. https://www.epicgames.com/fortnite/en-US/news/high-digital-fashion-drops-into-fortnite-with-balenciaga
Walter Chipambwa, Evelyn V. Chikwanya Chinhoyi(2022, November ). Design Communication: Fashion Design Students’ Perspective on Digital vs Physical Mood Boards, Conference: 11th International Symposium on Graphic Engineering and Design, (pp. 697-703).
XRCOUTURE. (2020). Photo & Fitting Guide. XRCOUTURE. https://xrcouture.com/pages/how-to-wear
Browzwear ( 2024 ).We Enable Apparel Companies to Digitally Transform Their Business. Browzwear。https://browzwear.com/products/v-stitcher
Adobe ( 2024 )。 免費線上 AI 藝術作品生成器:使用文字建立 AI 藝術作品。Adobehttps://www.adobe.com/tw/products/firefly/features/ai-art-generator.html
Barnard, M.(2004)。時尚溝通(鄭靜宜譯;初版)。新北市:桂冠。(原著出版於1996)。
Barthes, R.(1997)。神話學(許薔薔、許綺玲譯;初版三刷)。新北市:桂冠。(原著出版於1957)。
Barthes, R.(1998)。流行體系(一)符號學與服裝符碼(敖軍譯;初版)。新北市:桂冠。(原著出版於1967)。
Barthes, R.(1998)。流行體系(二)時尚的神話學(敖軍譯;初版)。新北市:桂冠。(原著出版於1967)。
黃心健(2022)黃心健的XR聖經:從虛實展演到Metaverse的未來。台北市:英屬蓋曼群島商網路與書出版社。
Leslie Davis Burns, Nancy O. Bryant(2002)。服飾事業經營(洪瑞麟譯;修訂二版)。新北市:商鼎。
川村由仁夜(2009)時尚學:時尚研究入門書(陳逸如譯;初版)。新北市:立緒出版社。
張小虹(2016)時尚現代性。台北市:聯經出版社。
臧迎春(2014)。從重裝到輕裝—近現代中法女裝樣式結構比較。北京:中國紡織出版社。
娜達·凡·登·伯格編 ( 2010 ) 時尚的力量The Power of Fashion About Design and Meaning。台北市:積木文化公司。(原著出版於2006)。
Cally Blackman ( 2016 ) 。時尚百年風華 (廖婉如譯;初版)。台北市:馬可孛羅文化。
沈弘編譯(2015)。遺失在西方的中國史 THE ILLUSTRATED LONDON NEWS ( 1842-1873) 。 香港:青森文化
李紅利、趙麗莎編譯(2016)。遺失在西方的中國史:法國《小日報》等記錄的晚清 (1891-1911)。臺北市:暖暖書屋。
周汛、高春明(1988)。中國歷代婦女妝飾。臺北市:南天書局。
徐廣源(2012)。大清后妃私家相冊。北京:中華書局。
田原禎次郎(2013)。日本人眼中的慈禧。(董丹譯)北京:紫禁城出社。
張瓊主編(2005)。清代宮廷服裝。香港:商務印書館(香港)有限公司。
沈從文、王㐨。(2004)中國服裝史。中國:陝西師範大學出版社。
黃能福、陳娟娟、黃鋼編著(2011)。服裝中華:中華服裝七千年(第四卷)。中國:清華大學出版社。
裕德齡 (2023)我在慈禧身邊的兩年: 清宮二年記。(施佳瑩譯)台北市:好讀出版有限公司(原著出版於1911)。
彭盈真(2023,6月19)。「藝」在言外:慈禧太后的形象塑造。中研院視訊會議。http://mingching.sinica.edu.tw/Academic_Detail/1173
黃盈嘉、胡秀玲、葉書佑(2021)。 使用CLO 3D電腦輔助軟體提升大學生在產業導向課程之初始樣衣打樣品質。紡織綜合研究期刊 , 31卷1期 ,187-199。https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.202101_31(1).0016
謝德鑫、周彩豔、李芳、劉彥麟(2021)。虛擬試衣技術在跨境電商的應用與商業模式創新探討。商業創新期刊,3卷1期,73-84。
Philip Kotler, Hermawan Kartajaya , Iwan Setiawan(2017)行銷4.0:新虛實融合時代贏得顧客的全思維(劉盈君譯;初版)。台北市:天下雜誌。
張萍萍。(2018)。三維服裝模擬系統建置與應用之研究—以襯衫長褲為例。(未出版碩士論文)。輔仁大學,新北市。
廖千瑩(2013)。服裝設計師應用PZB模型建構服務品質提升系統化之工作程序(未出版碩士論文)。嶺東科技大學,台中市。
Brian Dipert (2021,10月05)。先進的Echo Look攝影機為何慘遭市場淘汰?EDN TAIWAN。https://www.edntaiwan.com/20201005nt31-teardown-amazons-echo-look-is-packed-with-tech/
黃云宣 (2021, 5月 10) 。被馬斯克「穿」紅的虛擬球鞋品牌 RTFKT,將如何影響時尚產業? 未來商務。 https://fc.bnext.com.tw/articles/view/1355
林怡萱 (2019,7月31) 。數位時尚新突破:全球第一個完全虛擬的時裝秀。時尚快訊。 https://www.fashionexpress.org.tw/focus/paper/5111485515
吳曉涵 (2019, 11月 11) 。LV也玩英雄聯盟?姬雅納「尊爵不凡」造型要搶要快。 UDN。 https://style.udn.com/style/story/8066/4157441
卓怡君 (2013, 1月1) 。女裝重災區 櫃姐憂裁員。 自由時報。https://news.ltn.com.tw/news/focus/paper/642685
王昱翔 (2021,3月 03) 。 實體秀回不去了?設計師詹朴把時裝秀拍成微電影!遠見雜誌 。https://www.gvm.com.tw/article/78205
黃云宣(2021,5月10)。被馬斯克「穿」紅的虛擬球鞋品牌 RTFKT,將如何影響時尚產業未來商務。取自https://fc.bnext.com.tw/articles/view/1355
技嘉科技(2022)。智慧穿衣鏡 : O2O (OnLin:e to OffLin:e) 體驗行銷解決方案。技嘉科技。取自https://www.gigabyte.com/tw/Solutions/smart-fitting-mirror
黃云宣(2021,7月07)。不再買錯 size!虛擬試衣間在電商平台起,降低退貨率更提升品牌知名度。未來商務。取自 https://fc.bnext.com.tw/articles/view/1 492
樂羽嘉,天下web only編譯(2017,4月27)。Amazon時尚攝影機每天幫你的穿搭評分。天下雜誌。取自 https://www.cw.com.tw/article/5082203
樂羽嘉,天下web only編譯(2015,12月31)。電玩搭時尚 FF13雷姐代言LV。天下雜誌。取自https://www.cw.com.tw/article/5073574?template=fashion
Benson Fang(2013,1月22)。品牌沒有只做線上或線下的選擇,eBay:不能忽略實體服務!科技報橘。取自https://buzzorange.com/techorange/2013/01/22/pure-players-have-begun-to-build-offLin:e-stores/
林怡萱 (2019,7月31)。數位時尚新突破:全球第一個完全虛擬的時裝秀。時尚快訊。取 自https://www.fashionexpress.org.tw/focus/paper/5111485515
未來商務(2021,12月30)。 元宇宙世界也在炒房!摸不到的虛擬土地,為何他們搶著進場?數位時代。取自https://www.bnext.com.tw/article/66990/real-estate-metaverse
行銷與Martech 虎嗅網(2021,3月18)。 從全球快時尚巨頭到退出中國市場!GAP面臨哪些問題,為何變成「定位尷尬」老品牌?數位時代。取自https://www.bnext.com.tw/article/61692/gap-china-market-america-march