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研究生: 吳華
WU Hwa
論文名稱: Helmut Newton 時尚攝影中的觀看與女性裸體
Gaze and Female Nude in Helmut Newton's Fashion Photography
指導教授: 林志明
Lin, Chi-Ming
學位類別: 碩士
Master
系所名稱: 美術學系
Department of Fine Arts
論文出版年: 2007
畢業學年度: 95
語文別: 中文
論文頁數: 133
中文關鍵詞: 時尚攝影鏡像觀看女性裸體
英文關鍵詞: Fashion Photography, mirror image, gaze, female nude
論文種類: 學術論文
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  • 摘要
    時尚攝影(fashion photography)自從1960年代以來,攝影師的表現風格漸富變化,加上女性解放運動自1970年代肇興與時尚媒體的多元發展,時尚攝影演變成並不特寫衣服而趨於類型化,風格包括戀物與窺視。基於這個時代背景,自1950年代開始為時尚攝影雜誌拍照的美籍時尚攝影師Helmut Newton (1920-2004) 如何在具有商業銷售目的之時尚作品中,突顯「觀看」及「女性裸體」,將是本論文即將要探討的問題。基於此,本研究將以Helmut Newton的兩組作品Self-portrait with models and wife與The Naked and the Dressed為主要研究文本,並從文獻探討與文本分析兩方面進行討論。在文本分析方面從攝影師自傳、歷史、精神分析、裸體論述以及電影《激情》(Passion)、委拉斯貴茲與塞尚等人的作品之觀點出發,分析兩組作品中的圖像意義,探討Newton是如何利用攝影影像,來營造觀看場域與女性裸體。

    Abstract
    Since 1960s, styles of fashion photography have been greatly changed and verified, moreover, since 1970s, sex liberation enhances fashion, fashion media and even the social atmosphere. Eventually, fashion photography is not only focusing on clothes, but also generates its own types and styles. According to this background, how did Helmut Newton (1920-2004) foreground gaze and female nude in commercial and marketing based fashion photography? The purpose of this study is to investigate Helmut Newton’s two major works and series: Self-portrait with models and wife’and The Naked and the Dressed, and to explore the gazes network and female nudes he created. There are two major methodological components of methodology in this study, one is historical review based on the insight of Newton’s Autobiography, and culture studies, the other is focused on the photography by using psychoanalysis theory of Freud, Lacan, and Jean Laplanche.

    序論…………………………………………………………………………………1 1.研究與框架………………………………………………………………………1 1.1研究背景與目的………………………………………………………………1 1.2研究範圍與限制………………………………………………………………2 1.3研究方法…………………………………………………………………………3 2.生平與評論………………………………………………………………………8 2.1Newton生平……………………………………………………………………8 2.2評論回顧………………………………………………………………………11 3.理論基礎………………………………………………………………………17 3.1攝影與影像本質的探討………………………………………………………17 3.11攝影(Photography)與影像(image)的定義……………………………17 3.12影像(image)的複製與再現(Representation)………………………18 3.2女性身體影像…………………………………………………………………21 3.21攝影中的裸體………………………………………………………………21 3.22女性裸體在歐洲文化………………………………………………………22 3.23裸像本身就是藝術的目的…………………………………………………23 3.3觀看方式的分析………………………………………………………………24 3.31觀者的凝視─男性的凝視…………………………………………………27 3.32鏡子與觀看…………………………………………………………………28 第一章 觀看之謎…………………………………………………………………31 1.納西色斯的痴狂…………………………………………………………………31 1.1私自領域的我…………………………………………………………………33 1.11童年女兒樣…………………………………………………………………34 1.12相機在私領域的療癒功能…………………………………………………35 1.2時尚攝影中的自我……………………………………………………………36 1.21男性行動女性觀看…………………………………………………………38 1.22陰性特質男性觀看…………………………………………………………39 2.慾望場域………………………………………………………………………42 2.1觀看與機具……………………………………………………………………42 2.11窺視與暴露…………………………………………………………………45 2.12Newton Illustrated……………………………………………………47 2.2電影與藝術之互文性…………………………………………………………52 2.21Blow-up與Passion………………………………………………………52 2.22委拉斯貴茲與塞尚的場域繼承者…………………………………………57 3.時尚攝影中之鏡………………………………………………………………63 3.1鏡子的愛戀……………………………………………………………………63 3.11Newton之鏡…………………………………………………………………64 3.12Ugo Mulas之鏡……………………………………………………………67 3.2Self-portraits with models and wife……………………………70 3.21場域分析……………………………………………………………………70 3.22鏡前悸動……………………………………………………………………72 第二章 裸體之謎…………………………………………………………………77 1.女性身體…………………………………………………………………………77 1.1藝術中的裸體…………………………………………………………………77 1.11Femme Fatale………………………………………………………………79 1.12The Story of Ohhh………………………………………………………84 1.2時尚書寫與女性身體…………………………………………………………86 1.21時尚與溝通…………………………………………………………………90 1.22遮羞與誘惑…………………………………………………………………91 2.時尚攝影與女性裸體之雕塑性…………………………………………………93 2.1裸之攝影………………………………………………………………………93 2.11Helmut Newton’s Big Nudes…………………………………………95 2.12拒絕色彩:全黑或全裸……………………………………………………97 2.2裸體與凝固…………………………………………………………………100 2.21攝影對雕塑之愛……………………………………………………………103 2.22Vanessa Beecroft之女性裸體…………………………………………107 3.時尚與女性解放………………………………………………………………113 3.1服裝與性別解放……………………………………………………………113 3.11面部表情……………………………………………………………………114 3.12女性主控……………………………………………………………………116 3.282年美麗翦影………………………………………………………………118 3.21細高跟鞋……………………………………………………………………121 3.22女性與權力服裝……………………………………………………………123 第三章 研究發現與結論…………………………………………………………127 參考文獻…………………………………………………………………………133

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    網路資源
    參考楊永源教授〈裸體畫欣賞〉講座網頁資料。http://www.ndhu.edu.tw/~geduprg/lectures/2003/Doc/0923.doc
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    參考時尚攝影網址,www.luminous-lint.com:http://www.luminous-lint.com/__sw.php?action=ACT_SING_TH&p1=334。
    參考裸體攝影網站,www.luminous-lint.com:
    http://www.luminous-lint.com/__sw.php?action=ACT_SING_TH&p1=2。
    參考維基百科全書:snapshot:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snapshot_aesthetic。
    參考維基百科全書:snapshot:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snapshot_aesthetic。
    參考維基百科全書,William Klein:http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Klein。
    參考Daniel Chandler, ‘Notes on The Gaze’, www. aber.ac.uk, 2002.
    參考Man Ray網站,http://www.manraytrust.com/Pages/biography.html。
    參考Richard Avedon官方網站,http://www.richardavedon.com/20060618。
    參考蓋伯丁官方網站,http://www.guybourdin.org/。
    參考Vanessa Beecroft相關文章:http://www.photosapiens.com/article.php?id_article=1449。
    參考Wikipedia:stiletto heels:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto_heel。

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