研究生: |
黃翊翔 |
---|---|
論文名稱: |
臺灣北部福隆海域海灘類型和裂流分布的時空間變動研究 |
指導教授: | 林雪美 |
學位類別: |
碩士 Master |
系所名稱: |
地理學系 Department of Geography |
論文出版年: | 2009 |
畢業學年度: | 97 |
語文別: | 中文 |
論文頁數: | 129 |
中文關鍵詞: | 地形動力學 、裂流 、時空間變動 、海灘安全 |
英文關鍵詞: | morphodynamics, rip currents, time and spatial change, beach safety |
論文種類: | 學術論文 |
相關次數: | 點閱:381 下載:20 |
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據巴西南部海灘研究顯示,海灘意外的成因中有78%是來自裂流帶來的危害,台灣四面環海,海灘眾多,不僅風景優美,亦適合從事海灘休憩和水域活動。鑑於國內海灘意外事件頻傳,裂流既為海灘危險的最主要因子,管理當局實有必要針對「裂流與海灘安全」的議題加以探討。然而過去國外文獻探討裂流發生的機制,主要探討的是海灘營力對於水下沙洲的影響,福隆海域東南端有雙溪河口注入,當探討海灘水下沙洲的變動時,也需考慮到河口逕流營力的影響。本研究即以Wright and Short(1984)的海灘模式為依據,探討不同時距下福隆海域海灘類型和裂流分布的時空間變動、以及波高營力和逕流營力等因子的影響,並應用於評估福隆海域之海灘安全性。
就海灘類型變動而論。北部鹽寮海灘段的海灘類型和當日平均示性波高的相關係數可達0.90以上,反映出海灘形態在波高影響下的立即反應,突發事件期間,海灘則呈現極端消散的狀態;東南部河口附近海灘則深受河口逕流流路切穿的影響,無法利用Wright and Short(1984)的理論進行分類,乃以河口逕流出海的角度最為型態判斷的依據。結果發現波浪營力增大時,河口逕流會往河口左側沿岸偏移。
就裂流分布變動而論。若比較冬、夏季的裂流分布,冬季的裂流數遠較夏季為多,且其位置的偏移量也較夏季為大,此反映出冬季波浪營力變化較大,夏季波浪營力趨於穩靜的事實;若比較各海灘段裂流位置偏移的空間差異,東南部河口沙灘附近之裂流擺移量遠較北部的鹽寮沙灘為大,單日移動量最高可達到75m以上,且相較於西北部裂流往東南偏移為主的情形,其皆是往西北偏移的現象,推測是由於波浪和逕流共同作用的結果。
就海灘安全性評估而論。海灘夏季較適合開放,然而於突發事件期間,海灘危險等級極高,應避免從事海灘遊憩活動;然而不論冬季和夏季,東南端堤防旁之裂流和河口逕流固定存在,需避免到海域東南側戲水。
比較Short等人於澳洲之研究,其海灘類型於冬、夏季具有常態性的規律變化,從短期變化來看,其各季節內的差異並不大,即使有短暫大浪,也只是讓裂流暫時消失。然而就台灣而言,長期四季雖仍具有常態性的變化,各季節內之變動量卻明顯有別:夏季季內變動不大;冬季隨著東北季風波浪營力的興衰,其變動較為明顯。尤其是台灣短期的突發事件,其極端的大浪會讓海灘呈現極端消散之狀態,使得原有的裂流形態和位置重組,此對裂流位置預測與海灘安全區之劃分來說是必須關注的課題。
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